Friday, March 9, 2012

What warhammer 40k modles dont need glue to put them togever?

What warhammer modles dont need glue to put them togeverWhat warhammer 40k modles dont need glue to put them togever?
The miniatures that come in the Assault on Black Reach boxed set can be snapped together without glue, although one would still normally recommend using glue.



When assembling plastic miniatures, use plastic glue. Also known as polystyrene cement, it melts the two sides of the bond, re-fusing them into a very strong permanent connection. There is no end of different makes and labels, but I recommend the Army Painter product, as a cheap(ish) reliable glue with a prevision nozzle (although it does clog easily if you leave the cap off!).



For metal and hybrid (metal and plastic) miniatures, use superglue. Again, there's no shortage of different sorts of cyanoacetate to choose from. If you're new to the hobby, I would again recommend the Army Painter product. It's not too runny, bonds rapidly and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. There are all sorts of other varieties to choose from, but get to grips with one before you look around for an alternative.



The vast majority of miniatures in a 40k army are now available in plastic.What warhammer 40k modles dont need glue to put them togever?
A lot of metal ones are single-piece castings but virtually all the plastic ones are multi-part.



You can use super-glue/krazy glue or polystyrene cement. Super-glue is the best to start with because it is easy to take the models apart again if you assemble the models incorrectly or get the pose wrong.



Be careful with super-glue, never squeeze the tube, if the glue doesn't flow then use a pin to unblock the nozzle. Also be aware that super-glue can be dangerous; never put it anywhere near your eyes or mouth.

Buy some cheap nail-varnish remover too, it is very useful for removing super-glue from your fingers!



Polystyrene cement *melts* plastic so it bonds plastic parts together much better than superglue, I often prefer to use "liquid poly" which is great for very tiny parts. Again, never squeeze the tube or it will splurge all over the place.





Start with whatever models you like, *lightly* spray paint them with the cheapest car undercoat paint you can find, leave to dry and then get painting, there are dozens of painting guides on the internet.



To make your models look good it is best to properly clean them up before you start by scraping away the mold-lines; I use a size #11 Excel straight blade with round handle. Be careful with sharp knives!

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