Warhammer?

Hi,

I have a boyfriend that plays warhammer and I don't. But I'm an artist that's amazingly skilled at painting so I thought I would surprise him by buying and painting a few models for him. But I have a few questions.



1] What is the primer called?

2] When sticking the various appendages together on a model is there a special kind of glue as much as the paints or is apoxy fine? and what kind of modeling putty would be best to fill in the cracks between? does apoxy putty work for this just as well?

3] Has anyone tried painting the miniatures with gouche' or Acrylic? How was that in compairison to the gamer's workshop brand?

4]are there any undead beasties in the Warhammer 40,000 setting?

5] Is clear top coat equal improvement to the colors, is it a bad idea, or does it really matter?Warhammer?
If you go to games workshop they will tell you or anywhere that sells warhammer will probably have paint and primer by it i would get a clerk to help me to tell you the truth :D
If you go to games workshop they will tell you or anywhere that sells warhammer will probably have paint and primer by it i would get a clerk to help me to tell you the truthWarhammer?
Try one of these sites. I think there is someone there waiting for a question like this

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I paint %26amp; assemble D%26amp;D figures, so it's the same thing. Your primer is your basic color either grey or white. I don't know if you have an air brush or not (I also build plastic models), but Floquil sells a spray can called SP Lettering Grey that I use as a primer. It's laquer based, so it "bites" into the figure/model and gives the rest of your paints something to hold onto. I use what ever paint i think looks best, which includes water based (acrylics), laquer, oil (like painters use on canvas) and the paint thinner kind. If you're using plastic figures, wash them in soap %26amp; water to remove the mold release agent that was applied to them in the factory. This will help a whole lot in having the paint adhere to the figure. Both Polly S and Model Master have water (acrylic) based paints in a very, very wide variety of colors. If you use acryllics, add a drop of liquid dishwasher soap to the paint bottle, then shake the bottle well. This will make the paint flow a lot easier whether you're using a paint or air brush. I've never used Gamers Workshop brand of paint, but Polly S is the best I've worked with and they have a lot more different colors than Model Master who tends more to military subjects.

If you're assembling metal figures, use a 2 part expoxy for metal. I put a little extra expoxy on the parts so when they are joined, they "ooze" a little bit and use that "ooze" to blend in the parts. If it's plastic, use regular tube (plastic) glue which is sold in every hobby shop/Kmart/Walmart/etc. The glue will actually melt a little bit of the plastic parts to make a stronger bond. Use putty sold at hobby shops to fill the seam lines where the parts join together. When I'm done painting the figure, I put a coat of Dull Coat which is made by Micro Scale (and maybe Model Master?), also available in hobby shops. Model Master's stuff is available in a spray can, while Micro Scales comes in a bottle. To me, it adds a little more realism and also protects the paint job because the figures are going to be used a lot, right?Warhammer?
1] The recommended primer for either metal or plastic models is Citadel Colour Skull White or Chaos Black spray, depending upon the effect you're looking for. There are cheaper alternatives, but I've not found one that gives a finish as smooth or which possesses the lovely texture of the Citadel Colour primer sprays (don't be tempted to apply the primer with a brush, the spray gives a far, far superior effect, although you may still need to touch up hard to reach areas with a brush).



2] I recommend using superglue for both plastic and metal miniatures. Loc-tite is the most reliable and is now available in a gel form that avoids the problem of run-off (when the liquid glue spreads to areas you don't want glued). You can use epoxy if you like, but it takes hours to dry properly and, with the more elaborate miniatures, instant drying is essential if you're going to finish the model in less than a day! The most popular filler is what's generally known as "green stuff", but which can be found under the trade name Kneadtite. This is, of course, epoxy putty. It's good stuff. For more complex uses, such as minor sculpting and conversions, I recommend ProCreate, an epoxy putty specifically designed for miniature sculpting, but green stuff is fine for gap filling. In fact, if you're on a budget, Milliput is also perfect adequate for gap filling, too, although it's a lot messier than green stuff.



3] The Citadel Colour paints *are* acrylic, but they aren't the same as artist's acrylics. I'm an artist, too, so I have both and the pigment concentration in Citadel Colour's normal range is up to ten times higher than that in artist's acrylics. The new Foundation range of paints (recommended if you use a black undercoat) have up to fifty times the pigment and are absolutely awesome (although watering the paint before application is vital). That said, Citadel Colour (GW's home brand) isn't the only one of the market. Vallejo Model Paints are highly regarded and superior to Citadel Colour in certain colours (especially metallics). Andrea Miniatures also produce their own paints that are starting to raise much interest on the pro-painting scene. But for your purposes, Citadel Colour will be fine. Don't use gouache. Seriously, just don't.



4] Sort of. You can find plague zombies throughout the Imperium, with a strong concentration in the Necromunda underhive. Check out the Necromunda range for more on that topic (Link 1, below). Alternatively, there is the more obvious undead analogue, the Necrons. Although they're actually metal robots, they have a strong "death" theme and bear the same sort of techniques as fantasy skeletons. Check out Link 2 for more.



5] I consider a coat of varnish to be absolutely essential if the models are intended to be played with and, actually, consider it to add an attractive sheen even to display models. GW's own "Purity Seal" (matte varnish) has a poor reputation and can cause a cloudy finish under certain circumstances. Widely reputed to be the market leader is Testor's "Dullcoat". I would say that it's always worth giving it a varnish coat rather than not.



I hope your boyfriend appreciates your efforts! It would be great to see the finished article up at CMON - see Link 3; you might also like to browse CMON for ideas and inspiration before starting.
1. its called codex primer (i think) i buy black primer from walmart or ace any kind works.



2. they have glue for the models but its just plastic glue in a warhammer bottle. any craft store will have model glue. and games workshop has this putty called "green stuff" but if you don't want to buy it use apoxy. its really expensive for a little bit.



3. i havent but the games workshop stuff is really good and works perfect on the model.



4. there is for warhammer but i dont think so for warhammer 40,000 they are two different games by the same company the also have lord of the rings



5. i have never tried but i think it would work but thats me